Bangkok

On a first visit, Rattanakosin and neighbouring Banglamphu put you within walking distance of the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the river piers. Banglamphu also takes in Khao San Road, a backpacker street that stays loud late into the night. The trade-off is that neither area has a Skytrain or metro station close by. Sukhumvit runs east along the BTS Sukhumvit Line and has the widest range of rooftop bars and nightlife, as well as international food. It also has easy connections to the Airport Rail Link. Silom and Sathorn make up the business district. Here the BTS and MRT meet near Lumphini Park, and Patpong's night market keeps the evenings busy. Families often choose the Riverside, where the Chao Phraya Express Boat lets you skip road traffic to reach the temples. For a short stopover, the Phaya Thai and Makkasan stations on the Airport Rail Link line are practical, or stay near Don Mueang if your flight is early.

Start at the Grand Palace, where Wat Phra Kaew holds the Emerald Buddha, Thailand's most revered image. Visitors must cover their shoulders and knees. A short walk south brings you to Wat Pho, where a gold-leafed reclining Buddha about 46 metres long fills an entire hall. The temple also hosts a traditional Thai massage school. From Tha Tien pier, a cross-river ferry takes you to Wat Arun, whose central prang is covered in pieces of Chinese porcelain. In the evening, Yaowarat Road in Chinatown fills with street-food vendors under neon signs. At the weekend, Chatuchak Market, next to Mo Chit BTS and Chatuchak Park MRT stations, has thousands of stalls selling clothes, antiques and plants. Jim Thompson House, near the National Stadium BTS stop, is a set of traditional teak houses collected by the American who revived Thai silk. For a day trip, Ayutthaya is about 80 km north and reachable by train. It was the former royal capital, and its ruined temples are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK), the Airport Rail Link runs from the basement of the terminal to Phaya Thai in about 26–30 minutes, stopping at six stations on the way. You can change to the BTS at Phaya Thai or to the MRT at Makkasan. Metered taxis leave from the public taxi stand on the arrivals side. Journey times by road depend heavily on traffic. From Don Mueang (DMK), a walkway connects the terminal to the SRT Dark Red Line, which reaches Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (Bang Sue) in about 15 minutes, where you can change to the MRT Blue Line. Airport buses and taxis also serve Don Mueang. In the city, the BTS Skytrain's Sukhumvit and Silom lines and the MRT Blue and Purple lines cover most districts visitors use. The Chao Phraya Express Boat is the quickest way to reach the riverside temples and the old town.

Bangkok has a tropical monsoon climate and is hot all year. Average monthly temperatures range from roughly 26°C in December to about 31°C in April. The cool, dry season runs from November to February, when afternoon highs of around 31–33°C come with lower humidity and little rain. Because the weather is easiest then, these months are also the busiest for visitors. March to May is the hot season, with April the peak. The south-west monsoon brings rain from about May to October. Expect heavy afternoon downpours and occasional flooded streets, particularly from August to October. Travelling during the wet season usually means fewer crowds. In April, Songkran marks the Thai New Year with city-wide water fights. Loi Krathong falls in November, when people float candlelit offerings on the Chao Phraya and the city's canals.

• Buy a Rabbit card for the BTS Skytrain to avoid ticket queues; the MRT accepts contactless bank cards at the gates.
• Thai sockets run on 220V and usually take plug types A, B, C and O, so bring a universal adaptor.
• Cover your shoulders and knees at the Grand Palace and in temples, and take off your shoes before entering temple halls.
• Tipping is not expected, but rounding up a taxi fare or leaving small change at a restaurant is common.
• Ignore anyone near the Grand Palace who says it is closed and offers to guide you elsewhere; this is a long-running scam that ends in a gem shop.
• Thai law strictly protects the monarchy, so avoid disrespectful remarks about the royal family and stand when the royal anthem plays before cinema screenings.