Athens

Plaka, the old district on the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis, works well for a first visit. Its mostly pedestrianised lanes put the main ancient sites within walking distance, and Monastiraki and Syntagma metro stations are close by. Koukaki, just south of the Acropolis around the Acropolis Museum, is a quieter residential area. Families who want a calmer base can still walk to the sights from here, and Line 2 stops at Akropoli and Syngrou-Fix. Psyrri, next to Monastiraki, is the nightlife choice, with bars, live music and late tavernas in its narrow streets. Kolonaki, under Lycabettus Hill, is the upmarket option, with galleries and designer shops near Syntagma. For a short stopover, the area around Syntagma makes sense: through trains on Metro Line 3 run straight from there to the airport, and the X95 express bus ends at the square.

The Acropolis comes first. The Parthenon, the Erechtheion with its Caryatid porch and the Propylaia gateway all sit on the rock above the city. Below it, the Acropolis Museum has glass floors over an excavated ancient neighbourhood and displays the original Caryatids. The Ancient Agora was the civic centre of classical Athens and holds the Temple of Hephaestus, one of the best-preserved Doric temples anywhere. The National Archaeological Museum displays the gold 'Mask of Agamemnon' found at Mycenae. At Syntagma Square, Evzones guards in traditional kilts change shifts at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of Parliament. The Panathenaic Stadium, built of marble, hosted the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. A funicular climbs from Kolonaki to the top of Lycabettus Hill, which looks out over the city to the sea. For a day trip, the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion stands on a headland at the southern tip of Attica, and Lord Byron's name is carved into one of its columns.

Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos is about 20 km east of the centre. Metro Line 3, the blue line, runs from the airport station to Syntagma in about 40 minutes. Only some trains go straight through. Others end at Doukissis Plakentias, where you can change to a city-bound Line 3 train on the same ticket. The Proastiakos suburban railway also uses the airport station and runs to Piraeus. Express buses leave from outside arrivals: the X95 goes to Syntagma Square and the X96 to Piraeus port, but road traffic makes journey times unpredictable. Taxis are also available outside arrivals. In the city, the metro lines connect at Monastiraki (lines 1 and 3), Syntagma (lines 2 and 3), and Omonia and Attiki (lines 1 and 2). Lines 1 and 3 both run to Piraeus, and trams run from the city centre down to the coast. Buses and trolleybuses fill the gaps.

Athens has a hot-summer Mediterranean climate with long, dry summers and mild, wetter winters. July and August are the hottest months, with afternoon highs usually in the low to mid 30s °C, and rain is rare from June to September. December to February brings daytime highs of roughly 13–15°C and most of the year's rain. April–May and late September–October usually see highs of about 20–27°C, which is more comfortable for walking around the exposed ancient sites. Crowds at the Acropolis build from late spring to early autumn, so it pays to arrive early. Through the summer, the Athens Epidaurus Festival stages drama and music at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Orthodox Easter falls in spring, carnival (Apokries) comes before Lent, and the Athens Marathon follows the route from Marathon in November.

• Buy a rechargeable ATH.ENA Card for the metro, trams and buses, and validate it each time you board.
• Greece uses Type C and Type F plugs at 230V.
• Tipping is not required, but rounding up or leaving about 5–10% for good table service is common.
• Wear shoes with grip on the Acropolis, because the marble paths there are worn smooth and slippery.
• Cover your shoulders and knees when visiting Orthodox churches and monasteries.
• Watch for pickpockets on crowded metro trains, especially on Line 1 between Monastiraki and Piraeus.